Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Making of a Cape

Since this year I was privileged to make not one, not two, but THREE cloaks for costumes.... I thought I'd share the simple manner I discovered to make them.

This was the easiest cloak pattern I could find with the fewest steps and least complicated techniques.

I found this tutorial on Pinterest (https://mellysews.com/2016/02/easy-princess-cape-tutorial.html) and adapted it to my needs.  (Giving credit where credit is due.)

For the girls simple, sparkly, mesh, capes - I pretty much followed the above directions precisely other than the measurements.  My girls wanted their capes long and their hoods 'big' so they could have a 'veil' when the hood was on and a lot of 'poof' when not wearing it.

For the third cloak I continued with the basic concept, adding some modifications due to the fact this frock was to be 'lined'.

First - Jacob bought his fabric.

He chose a grey and red 'knit' type material.  Not my favorite textile to work with, but.... hey, he paid for it..... so.... I had little to no choice but..... to go with it.

I laid out both pieces of fabric on our living room floor -- one on top of the other with the right sides facing one another, since the cloak was to be lined.

Next I simply had Elijah lay on the fabric to determine the length of the cape and hood.

To do this, I measured from the top of his head to his shoulders and added several inches (giving the 'hood' a little extra 'poof' and bulk); then I measured to the bottoms of his feet and added an inch or so for the seam allowance. 
The grey material and red material - right sides together - Elijah stretched out on them to measure hood and length.

I marked both.

A line across the top for the 'hood' measurement
and a line across the bottom to cut off the excess for the proper length.
Next, I cut off the excess.

I used my cutting mat and rotary cutter to make this step as simple and precise as possible.
After this, I sewed all four sides closed, leaving a small section on one of the short sides (the one that will become the bottom) so as to be able to turn said cape right side out.

Sewing all 4 sides together -- with the bulk of close to 4 yards of material -- proved to be tricky.
Upon turning the cloak right side out, I debated with myself.  Was this sufficient or should I sew a topstitch around the entire cloak to give a more 'finished' look?  Completing this step would allow me to close up the bottom seam leaving the entire garment looking polished and refined -- especially the hood.

HOWEVER.... upon viewing the cloak in it's sewn together state, I determined putting the topstitch around the perimeter was simply not necessary for a costume.  That means I will need to do a quick stitch of the bottom when it's all said and done.

Not a big deal in the long run.

From here, I used my large sewing ruler as a 'guide' and marked a line for the placement of the ribbon (as my original mark was now on the inside of the cloak.  Doh!)  This will define the 'shoulder' section and also become the tie closure for the cape.  Pinning the ribbon down, I decided to place it on the inside rather than the outside of the cape as I'd done for the girls.  This will allow Jacob's tie closure to be 'invisible' when he wears it.  Above the ribbon will be the hood, below the 'body'.

Once the ribbon was pinned in place, I simply sewed down both long sides to make a 'pocket or tube' in which to thread the elastic.  I cut the elastic according to Elijah's neck/shoulder width so the cape would be 'gathered' once it's fed through and sewed into place inside the ribbon casing.

Sewing the ribbon down to make the 'casing' for the elastic.
Before adding the elastic, I folded the cape in half lengthwise with the ribbon on the outside.  By having the ribbon on the outside, the seam of the 'hood' along with the tie will be on the underside or inside of the cloak and not visible upon wearing.  Next I marked a curve along the 'point' of the hood as Jacob opted to not have it 'pointy'.  Then I sewed the 'top' of the cape together along said curve, making the hood of this simple cloak.  After it was sewn together, I cut off the excess material where I sewed the 'curve' and the bulky seam of the hood.

The cloak folded in half and pins to mark the 'curved' hood.
After that was all accomplished, I was able to thread the elastic through the ribbon casing to gather the cape at the neck/shoulder area.  Sewing the ends of the elastic in place at the edges of the ribbon casing on both sides completed this step.  The ribbon extends past the edges of the fabric to allow it to be tied shut - or a pin could be used as well.

The finished product with the hood down.  It's not as 'full' as Jacob had wanted,
but Elijah said, "If he doesn't like it, I'll take it."  LOL!
Just a few modifications and I had a lined, hooded cloak in a handful of simple steps.

Not to mention the time it took was fairly minimal.

The longest amount was spent getting the material laid out straight.  Go figure.  :-)

With the hood up.
The most difficult aspect was the shear volume of material with which I was working.  Close to 4 yards of knit fabric - doubled - is A LOT of fiber to maneuver.

The back with hood down in the back.  I like the rounded hood.  Probably could have rounded it even a bit more.


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